Fuel_System

19th Jan 2008 - I got my wedge plate back from the engineer's today. I could have probably done with another 0.5 degree's taking off, but It's only me that will know and I don't think the small amount off true will make that much difference!

I have mounted the carb on a heat shield gasket from Repower\Roadcraft, then the wedge plate, and lastly, between the wedge plate and the carb, the normal gasket.

After fitting the carb, I finished it off by temporarily fitting the Cobra air filter, just to see what it looks like.................and I'm quite pleased!!!!

26th Dec 2009 - I started the permanent fitting of the fuel pump, filter and pipe work into the boot today. Firstly I had to feed the rubber fuel hose, which connects the hard fuel line to the filter and pump, into the boot cavity. The hose goes from the hard fuel line, behind the roll bar leg and then having drilled a hole, through into the boot compartment. I used a stainless steel 'P' clip to fasten it to the body so there will be no appreciable movement.

Once the hose was secured and fed through a grommet into the boot, I fitted a push in connector to the rubber hose with a -6JIC female connector on the other end. Although the push in connect is barbed and would definitely not come out, I still fitted a stainless steel hose clip to make doubly sure!! into the -6JIC end goes an Aeroquip hose fitting to take the braded hose which will join this part of the pipe work to the pump outlet.

Some builders put rivnuts in the tank to hold the sender in place, but after talking with Andy Burrows, he convinced me that the best way was to "tap" the holes out and bolts straight to the tank using 5mm dome headed bolts. Because the stainless steel is fairly thick, there is enough space to get a couple of threads in, and because there is no real pressure needed, the 5mm bolts will hold it well enough.

I fastened the sender down using the rubber washer provided, but first I gave the area a liberal coating of Blue Hylomar to make sure there was a good seal.

I just need to sort the filler cap out now and that's another task sorted!

6th Mar 2010 - I finally got round to tackling the fuel sender this weekend. It was a real mystery to me how to fit the thing. Because of the strange shape of the tank, and the internal baffles, it became a "Krypton Factor" challenge to get the best fit! The gauge I finally received from ETB was the basic top mounted one, and the arm was too long. The length was no problem and I cut it ready for rejoining, once I had fathomed the shape and length it needed to be. Eventually after lots of bending and testing with a multi meter, I settled on a satisfactory shape and length. The secret is to fit the sender diagonally across the tank to get more useable length. I used a multi meter to test the full and empty resistance out of the tank, compared to the installed sender (I taped the sender to the tank so I could turn it upside down to test the "Full" resistance). I ended up happy with the "Full" reading and the "Empty" reading (taking into account that because of the shape of the tank, length of the sender and internal baffles, I was some way short of the true bottom of the tank). The "Empty" position will give me approximately 2 gallons (10 litres) left in the tank, which is a good enough reserve when the gauge reads "Empty" (as long as I don't chance my arm to much!!).

Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of the bent and shaped sender arm before fitting it!

19th Feb 2010 - To cut a long story short.........!!!! I got an adjustable fuel sender back from ETB but that again could not be adjusted short enough to fit in the tank without fouling the side!! So, I sent that back, along with the gauge (as the gauges are calibrated to the individual sender) and threw myself on ETB's good will again. Today I got back the basic ETB sender and another new fuel gauge. This HAS to fit!! Not time this weekend so I will hopefully get the sender and tank sorted out next weekend.

18th Jan 2010 - I spoke to ETB today and they were brilliant. It is essentially my fault, but they are happy to take the sender and the fuel gauge back (a different gauge is required for the other type of adjustable sender) so I'm packing them up this evening for despatch tomorrow. Hopefully the correct ones will be back with me soon so I can finish of the installation of the tank and fuel system.

17th Jan 2010 - Bit of a cockup with the fuel sender became apparent today. I have bought a tubular "Dip Pipe" type fuel sender as recommended by ETB for their fuel gauge. It was more expensive but apparently more accurate and easy to set up. It was only when I tried to fit it today that the mistake came to light. because of the shape of the tank, the sender will not go straight down vertically. It fouls the sloping side of the tank. So.......I need to speak to ETB tomorrow and see if they will swap it for the correct type. These things are sent to try us!!!!

10th Jan 2010 - Another year starts, and hopefully the car will be finished this year!! Carried on with the fuel system installation this weekend. I got the pump and filter fitted to my bracket and secured to the car. I sandwiched some rubber grommets in between the pump bracket and the home made bracket to hopefully muffle some of the vibrations and noise common with electronic pumps. I also used a back plate on the home made bracket and sandwiched some neoprene sheet in between it to give a bit more muffling. We will see if it works!! I used some Liquid thread sealer with PTFE in it for the unions that fit into the pump and filter because they are taper fit. It's recommended to use a sealant on these when being used for fuel fittings.

I used Aeroquip alloy fittings mainly because I had some. They are a bugger to work with because its very easy to mark the anodizing. I looked for some steel ones but couldn't find any. anyway, these will be boxed in so its only for my benefit I want them to look good!! I used -08JIC braided hose from the tank to the filter and -06JIC for the rest.

Having fitted the pump and filter, and then having a think (shouldn't you think about things before you do them!!?), I decided the bracket and so the pump and filter should be lower. The reason behind this is that I want to box it all in and the boxing should be the same level across the tanks and pump system. As you see by picture 6 below, I have lowered the bracket\pump setup, by a couple of inches. This will let me box it all in at the same level.

The tank will need to come out again for me to fit the sender, but I haven't received that yet from ETB. Hopefully it (together with the remaining gauges) will be here next week. Once that's done and the tank back in, I will just need to secure the tank with a couple of alloy straps, and then sort the wiring and the filler cap and hose out.

The idea is to keep the Pump and Filter as vertical as possible against the sloping bodywork. I don't know if it will make any difference, but it can't do any harm. It also allows me behind the bracket to fit some kind of grommet or rubber to try and deaden any noise from the Pump. I havn't worked out how to do this yet as I am waiting for some more nuts and bolts to attach both items to the bracket.

I am using AeroQuip connectors and braded hose for the fuel. They are a real bugger to fit without marking the anodizing, but to be honest, no one is going to see this apart from me (although it does annoy me if I can't get things perfect!!). I should get the nuts and bolts soon after the New Year so will be able to finish this off. Once its all fitted I want to box it in somehow.

More in 2010!!

Looking at the fuel tank, I noticed and extra inlet\outlet thread at the top of the tank near the hole for the sender. After asking around it became obvious that this is for an EFI engine where a fuel return line is needed. I guess If I had known I would have told Andy not to put one on. Anyway, I have bought a -6JIC blanking cap to fit on. At least the inlet is there if I ever switch to an EFI system and need it!!

1st Dec 2008 - The engine is now running fine. I have removed the pressure regulator and set the float levels. There is still a bit of smoke at start-up and on the over-run, but having talked to people on the Cobra Forum who hopefully know a lot more than me, the probable issue lies with the valve guides (and also probably still running rich). I have taken a decision that this can be sorted once the car has run for a while and am not going to try and "fix" it now. So, Once the body arrives I am ready to get on with the rest of the build!!

29th Nov 2008 - Ran up the engine this weekend with the regulator fitted but things weren't satisfactory. It started OK but when it got hot it spluttered and then wouldn't start. I called the guys at "Real Steel", who recommend Holley's for this engine, so hopefully know what they are talking about! They told me the optimum pressure for the Holley is 6psi. So as my Carter is 6-8psi with a built in regulator, and the "Fuel King" is only 1.5-5psi I reckon I may not need it!. What I have decided to do instead is to set the float levels as per the Holley manual and have a fiddle with the mixture screws etc to see if I can get it to run less rich. Watch this space!!

9th June 2008 - What with working abroad and being busy in general, I have hardly been in my garage for the last month. Anyway this weekend I decided to spend a few hours rigging up the fuel components to temporary mountings in readiness for the engine start. I had bought a Carter pump but immediately had difficulties with the mounting nuts. They are a very poor design and I stripped one of the threads of the bolts that hold the pump to the mounting bracket (see pics). So, rather than trying to source a new one I manufacture my own with a 1/4" UNF stud and dome nut. Looks fine and a lot stronger.

I bolted a piece of MDF to the back chassis as a temporary place to mount the pump and filter (just waiting for my FRAM filter to arrive). I am only going to use the one filter, in between the tank and the pump.

I have also fitted an clipped in the front Flexible fuel pipe from the rigid fuel line to the Carb. I have had to use a hose reducer because the 3/8" ID hose from the rigid fuel pipe is to loose on the carb union. I have reduced it to 8mm and used a piece of cotton reinforced brake hose for the last part. I did have Stainless Steel overbraid on the hose but have taken it off till after SVA. I was just a bit concerned that if the examiner can't see the writing on the hose it may be an issue. Best to be safe that sorry I guess and its no hassle to put it back on later.

15th Jan 2008 - My Holley 390 carb arrived today from V8 Tuner. To go with the carb I also got a Ford Motorsport Cobra air filter. This matches the rocker covers and look brilliant..........I think so anyway!! I also recieved a Moroso 5 degree wedge plate to level the carb up (the Rover engine normally tilts back a little. In the GD chassis its level, so the manifold tilts forward a bit). when I put the wedge plate on, it over compensated by about a degree and a half. I have given the wedge plate to a local engineer to machine it to a 3.5 degree angle which will be just about perfect.